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Aims:

• To look at the considerations people take into account when purchasing a product, in this case, a T-shirt.
• To find out about the growth and production of cotton and the benefits to farmers of growing cotton organically.
• To explore alternative fabrics to cotton, notably hemp, and consider some of the issues surrounding the growth of hemp and its production into T-shirts.
• To examine the issues relating to developing ethical trading policies in commercial, complex and highly competitive world markets.
• Open up discussion of our responsibilities as consumers to those workers in countries supplying us with goods and services.

Synopsis:

00.00-00.42
Opening titles.

00.43-01.52
Customer choice - 'vox pop' interviews with young people in Oxford Street, London giving their reasons for deciding which T-shirts to buy.

1.53-3.40
The growth and production of cotton in the Aral Sea, Kazakhstan and the resultant problems.

3.41-05.50
The problems of growing cotton in West Africa, especially the threat from insects, plant diseases and the effects of pesticides on the health of local workers. One quarter of all agricultural pesticides are used on cotton crops, which contributes to the deaths of 20,000 farmers a year.

5.51-10.04
Exploring companies that make T-shirts using alternative methods: Gossypium in Lewis, Sussex produces organic cotton garments made from cotton grown by farmers in Gujarat, India. The farmers explain the methods they use and the problems of growing cotton organically.

10.05-13.49
The owners of Gossypium, Thomas Petit and Abigail Garner, describe how they developed their company, the production of cotton cloth using Indian companies and the marketing of the completed garments.

13.50-14.44
Gossypium and its links with Marks and Spencer. An M & S executive explains why they buy cotton-based goods from companies like Gossypium and their policy in developing Fair Trade marketing agreements.

14.45-17.44
An alternative to cotton - Hemp and the development of The Hemp Trading Company (THTC) run by Dru and Gav Lawson. The problems of making T-shirts using hemp-based cloth and of finding companies that can make the garments in good working conditions and using eco-friendly practices.

17.45-19.49
Searching for suitable factories to make THTC's T-shirts. After a great deal of research a number of possible suitable companies are identified in Central China. Dru Lawson makes the trip to China to explore potential factories.

19.50-21.44
On Dru's return to Sussex THTC hear about a farm in England that has grown hemp commercially for several years to be used for horse-bedding and strengthening car doors. However, the farm has recently acquired a prototype invention that will be able to break down the hemp stalks and extract the fibres inside. Once extracted, the fibres can be spun into yarn and woven independently or blended with cotton. Even nettles can be made into wearable fibres.

21.45-22.21
A company called BioRegional was responsible for organising the trial of this prototype machine and the company explain the machine's potential in revolutionising textile production.

22.22-23.34
THTC give their verdict - they are impressed and optimistic in being able to produce hemp-based garments on a large scale, growing hemp in the country of sale -Europe for the European market, USA for the USA market and Asia for the Asian market.

23.35-end
Credits.

Curriculum Relevance:

Citizenship

Knowledge and understanding about becoming informed citizens:

• the opportunities for individuals and voluntary groups to bring about social change locally, nationally, in Europe and internationally
• the wider issues and challenges of global interdependence and responsibility, including sustainable development and Local Agenda 21

Developing skills of enquiry and communication

• express, justify and defend orally and in writing a personal opinion about a topical political, spiritual, moral, social or cultural issue.

Consumer rights and responsibilities

Debating a global issue

Global issues, local action

Business Studies:

• to develop an appreciation of the responsibilities that businesses face in reacting to environmental and community concerns
• to develop an appreciation of the changing roles and responsibilities that businesses face in the community

Background Information:

Cotton
Cotton is made from a plant that is an annual and grows to a height of about 1.5 metres before it flowers. The fruit is like a pod called a boll that contains black seeds embedded in a mass of white fibres. Commercial cultivation of cotton can only take place in regions that have:

1. an annual rainfall of 500-1,000 mm mostly falling in the growing season or plentiful supplies of water from irrigation
2. a long, sunny growing period with at least 160 frost-free days and high temperatures of about 21°C
3. a dry harvest
4. deep rich soils

As a result, most of the world's cotton is grown between latitudes 45° north and 30°south. The major producing countries within this region are the United States, People's Republic of China, India, Pakistan and Republic of Uzbekistan. However, Brazil, Australia, Egypt, Argentina, Turkey, Greece and Syria are also significant producers. World's Main Cotton Producers 2001/2002

The Aral Sea in Uzbekistan
The Aral Sea in Uzbekistan was once the fourth largest lake in the world. Between 1960 and 1989 its area decreased by 40% mainly as a result of the increasing amount of water drawn from two great rivers of central Asia, the Amur Dar'ya and Syr Dar'ya, to irrigate the cotton fields of Uzbekistan. It is now an ecological disaster area.

All commercial fishing in the Aral Sea has disappeared. There is a shortage of fresh food because local farmland has deteriorated. The loss of the cooling effect of the Aral has caused the region to heat up. The health of the population has suffered, with epidemics, soaring cancer rates, increased liver and kidney disease, high rates of infant mortality and birth defects - all mainly as a result of toxic dust that blows from the salty wastelands of the former sea.

Organic Cotton Growing
One answer to environmental degradation and human suffering would appear to be Organic cotton. Cotton grown by using organic farming methods is considered to be healthier because medical problems linked with handling farm chemicals are prevented.

Organic cotton farming depends upon the development of biological cycles using ‘natural’ methods to grow produce. The farmers use only natural methods to control pests and do not spray chemicals on the cotton crops at all. The farmers encourage ‘helpful’ insects to live on their plants and eat the pest insects. They may also plant other crops nearby that are more attractive to pest insects. As a result, the pest insects are more likely to eat those plants rather than the cotton plants.

In recent years scientists have developed several varieties of cotton that have built-in protection against some of the pests and have also made a special food spray that attracts and feeds the helpful insects. However, it is harder to grow organic cotton and organic farmers produce much less cotton than conventional cotton farmers. This makes the cotton more expensive for manufacturers to buy, so the demand for organic cotton is limited.

In Australia, farmers found that yields halved when cotton was grown organically, although farmers in the United States have had more success. Cotton accounts for 50% of the world's textiles needs but organic cotton production could leave a considerable shortfall in the supply of cotton on the global textile markets. Trade experts predict a 30% increase in cotton demand in the next ten years. World Organic Cotton Production 1997

Making Cotton Textiles
The mass of white fibres (lint) in the cotton bolls is separated from the black seeds by a process called ‘ginning’. The first stage in making cotton cloth is to join these cotton fibres together using a spinning machine to make a continuous thread called yarn. The yarn is then manufactured into different types of cotton cloth by weaving on machines called looms. The woven fabric, called ‘gray’ goods, is sent to a finishing factory, called a plant, where it is bleached, pre-shrunk, dyed, printed and given a special finish before being made into clothing or other cotton products.

Hemp
Hemp is a very versatile plant that will grow well in a wide range of climates at any latitude from Norway to the Equator and can be grown easily in the UK with no pesticides or herbicides. It can grow up to 5 metres in height. Industrial hemp closely resembles the marijuana plant although marijuana cannot be produced from it. The ideal conditions for growth are:

• semi-humid conditions with temperatures between 14° and 27°C. Seedlings can tolerate up to -5°C frost
• plenty of rainfall/irrigation - 300-400mm, particularly in the first six weeks of growth
• well-drained loam soils. A shortage of nitrogen in the soil can reduce fibre mass very significantly

If hemp is grown for fibre the plants are spaced closely together to encourage stalk growth. The fibre is usually harvested when the plant has finished producing pollen and the first seeds start to develop. In the harvesting process, the non-fibre portions of the bark are dissolved in order to separate the fibres more easily in processing machinery. This process is called retting.

World production of hemp has declined in recent years. According to FAO data, world hemp fibre and tow production decreased from 368,373 tonnes in 1966 to a low of 55,823 in 1994, before increasing to 69,398 in 1998. In 1998, China accounted for 38% of world hemp fibre and tow production. Currently most raw materials are imported from China and Hungary. Although several states are examining the legalization of industrial hemp, production is still prohibited in the United States because of the inability to differentiate visually between marijuana and industrial hemp. The US is now the only member of the G7 that does not permit the cultivation of industrial hemp.

Making Textiles from Hemp
The stalk of the hemp plant has two parts, called the bast and the hurd. The bast consists of long fibres that can be used to produce clothing, paper, building materials, insulation, and carpeting. The bast can be woven into almost any kind of cloth. Hemp textiles tend to be targeted as a speciality item at the higher-end of the market where they do not need to compete on price. It is very durable and the first Levi's blue jeans were made out of hemp for this reason. The coarseness of the fibres, from very fine to coarse, is determined by crop varieties and the time of the harvest. Weaving of hemp fibres into textiles has been undertaken primarily in Hungary, China, Romania, Russia and the Ukraine. Processing costs are higher for industrial hemp because the fibres vary from the standard specifications for fibre length and diameter. As a result, it is necessary to install specialist machines in factories. The Hemp Trading Company (THTC) that features in the programme is looking to expand its business using homegrown hemp and making both pure hemp and blended hemp and cotton garments.

Activities:

1. Working in pairs one person takes on the role of an organic cotton farmer in Gujarat in India and the other a member of Gossypium Ltd in Sussex. Watch Consumer Power: T-shirts and note particularly the sections that deal with Organic Cotton and Fair Trading Policies. For the person whose role you are taking make a list of the benefits and disadvantages of Organic Cotton Farming and developing a Fair Trading Policy (consider price; competition; jobs; working environments, standards of living; markets).
2. a) Describe how Gossypium’s ethical behaviour helps cotton farmers in Gujarat in India.
   b) Working in small groups, try to find information on other businesses that operate in an ethical way. Aim for at least two businesses from each group member.
3. Organise a campaign to persuade young people to buy T-shirts made from hemp. Describe the strategies you would use and explain the qualities of the product and other points that you would wish to emphasise.
4. Explain how conventional methods of cotton farming have brought social costs to the local area in which the farmers operate.
5. How have the owners of Gossypium reacted to these environmental and community concerns?

Links:

This web page contains links to other websites that are not under the control of and are not maintained by Channel 4 Television. Channel 4 Television is not responsible for the content of these sites and does not necessarily endorse the material on them.

The Story of Cotton
A detailed article tracing the history of cotton growth and production

Cotton's Journey
A comprehensive website that includes a detailed section on the story of cotton

Follow the Yarn
Includes a comprehensive glossary of terms used in the cotton industry and its associated history

Spinning the Web
The history of cotton and the cotton-making industry in Manchester

Gossypium Ltd
The company's retailing website. Although this is an online retailing site, the range of clothing that Gossypium makes can be seen

The Organic Cotton Site
A site dedicated to all the farmers, manufacturers, activists, retailers and others who are devoting their energies to making organic cotton a viable agricultural and economic alternative

The Potential of Hemp Production
An article from Canada describing hemp as a crop and the resultant products. World hemp fibre and seed production figures are also given

The History of Hemp
A brief article tracing back the history of hemp to more than 6,000 years ago

The Hemp Trading Company (THTC)
The company's official website ­ includes a description of hemp farming and products from hemp

BioRegional Home Page
The website of the company featured in the programme that is making a prototype of machine that will break down hemp stalks and extract the fibres inside

Credits:
Produced by Squeeze Productions in association with IBT for Channel 4

Cocoa programme
Presenter: DJ Rap
Archive: Huntley Film Archive; Channel 4 Television; Financial Times; Bournville Village Trust
Consultant: Adrienne Jones
Archive Research: Georgia Burn
Production Manager: Maggie Swinfen
Graphics Catti Calthorp
Sound: Angus Anderson; Chris Reynolds; Steve Hopkins; Miles Massey
Camera: Will Pugh; Matt Wyer; Keith Massey; Rod Cumberbatch
Dubbing Mixer: Jez Spencer
On-line Editor: Simon McMahon
Off-line Editor: Theo Williams
Producer/Director: Nicci Crowther
Webnotes: John Austin

T-shirts programme
Presenter: DJ Rap
Archive: ITN Archive; Journeyman Pictures Ltd: PAN UK
Consultant: Adrienne Jones
Archive Research: Georgia Burn
Production Manager: Maggie Swinfen
Graphics Catti Calthorp
Sound: Angus Anderson; Mario Sierra; Lauri Kelleher; Steve Hopkins
Camera: Will Pugh; Matt Wyer; David Langan
Dubbing Mixer: Jez Spencer
On-line Editor: Simon McMahon
Off-line Editor: Theo Williams
Producer/Director: Nicci Crowther
Webnotes: John Austin

Mobile phones programme
Presenter: DJ Rap
Archive: arle G.E.I.E; Channel 4 television; Ian Redmond Born Free Foundation; ITN/Reuters; VAT; World Society for the Protection of Animals; with thanks to Gartner Research
Consultant: Adrienne Jones
Archive Research: Georgia Burn
Production Manager: Maggie Swinfen
Graphics: Catti Calthorp
Sound: Angus Anderson; Chris Reynolds
Camera: Sam Gracey; Matt Wyer; Jonathon Marchant
Dubbing Mixer: Jez Spencer
On-line Editor: Simon McMahon
Off-line Editor: Theo Williams
Series Producer: Nicci Crowther
Producer/Director: Emma Wallace
Webnotes: John Austin